Plant raw materials become "hot", "natural + efficacy" is the trump card, the industry is gradually stabilizing and improving

2025.02.24

In November 2023, the State Food and Drug Administration issued the "Announcement on Encouraging Innovation and Standardizing Management of New Cosmetic Raw Materials (No. 143 of 2023)", which encourages the development of new cosmetic raw materials in combination with my country's traditional advantageous projects and characteristic plant resources, and supports the use of modern science and technology to carry out research and innovation of cosmetic raw materials.

The development and filing of plant raw materials became popular for a while, and plant raw materials became "hot". Compared with chemical raw materials and biotechnology raw materials, plant extracts have the advantages of being natural, mild and low-irritation, safe and effective. In addition, China's characteristic plant resources are rich, and plant raw materials were once considered to be the "handle" for domestic beauty brands to achieve "overtaking on the curve".

"Plant raw materials usually have the characteristics of small adverse reactions, mild efficacy, and multi-functionality, which makes them very suitable for sensitive skin. For example, artemisia annua oil AN+ is extracted from Artemisia annua, which has superb medicinal value. In 2015, Tu Youyou won the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine for her contribution to the creation of new antimalarial drugs-artemisinin and dihydroartemisinin, making Artemisia annua and artemisinin famous all over the world.

Among the special plant raw materials sought after by beauty brands, flowers and plants account for an important proportion. "As an important research area of ​​traditional Chinese medicine, Chinese people have a natural understanding and acceptance advantage in the development and application of flower and plant raw materials.

my country's "Catalogue of Names of Used Cosmetic Raw Materials" (2021 edition) includes a total of 8,972 raw materials, of which more than 1/3 are plant raw materials. Since the implementation of the "Regulations on the Management of Registration and Filing Materials for New Cosmetic Raw Materials" on May 1, 2021, the number of new plant raw materials registered has increased significantly, with 1 in 2021, 5 in 2022, and 20 in 2023.

Plant raw materials need to undergo strict safety assessments in multiple links from research and development, production and processing to application addition, testing, etc., to maximize the safety of raw material use; although the application of plant raw materials in cosmetics has become popular, it also faces many challenges.

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